A new exhibition and Edinburgh Fringe programme in the capital is set to shine a spotlight on the enduring art of kiltmaking, bringing together heritage craftsmanship and modern design in a fresh and engaging way.
Taking place at the Scottish Textiles Showcase on St Mary’s Street, just off the Royal Mile, the initiative is a collaboration between bespoke kiltmaker Andrea Chappell and the Dye, Weave, Pleat project. Together, they aim to champion what is increasingly regarded as an endangered craft, exploring traditional kiltmaking techniques alongside their contemporary reinterpretations.
The boutique, known for its carefully curated selection of Scottish knitwear, outerwear and homeware, provides an ideal backdrop for the showcase. Its focus on blending heritage with modern design mirrors the ethos of the Dye, Weave, Pleat collective, which promotes a more sustainable approach to kiltmaking through the use of traditional skills and responsible materials.
Visitors will be able to view a series of couture kilts created by the collective in-store, offering a rare insight into the craftsmanship behind each piece. The installation highlights hand-stitched garments alongside contemporary kilt pins by silversmith Kristin Beeler, while demonstrating the detailed processes involved in their creation.
Two Edinburgh Fringe events will further explore the craft. On Monday 17 August, Contemporary Kiltmaking: What Makes a Kilt will see Andrea Chappell discuss her approach, including her use of vintage fabrics and deadstock materials alongside classic tartans and tweeds.
The following day, Contemporary Kiltmaking: the Dye, Weave, Pleat Collaboration brings together Chappell with colourist Cavan Jayne and hand weavers Chantal Allan and Christopher McEvoy of Glasgow-based micro-mill VEVAR. The session will examine the intersection of natural dyeing, hand weaving and traditional kiltmaking, as well as the collaborative process behind creating contemporary kilts. Both Jayne and VEVAR have previously worked with leading fashion houses including Hermès and Alexander McQueen.
Kitty Bruce-Gardyne, director of the Scottish Textiles Showcase, said: “We’re thrilled to be bringing these incredible kilts to Edinburgh – it’s really exciting to be sharing genuine Scottish craftsmanship in the heart of the city and we hope that it will shine a light on the creativity and skill of our textiles industry. Our vision is simple: to celebrate Scottish provenance and the skills of talented artisan makers and mills, and our collection reflects the enduring quality that’s promised when you see ‘Made in Scotland’.
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“Our two Fringe events will be of interest to anyone who’d like to know more about how the endangered craft of kiltmaking is being given new life by a new generation of artisans, attracting the interest of haute couture fashion houses. These are not the standard tartan kilts found elsewhere but luxury pieces with incredible detailing and finishing – a great example of why it’s so important to us to celebrate Scotland’s rich textile heritage.”
The installation runs from 25 June to 30 August, with free admission, while tickets for each Fringe event are priced at £10. Both events and the exhibition take place at the Scottish Textiles Showcase, 20 St Mary’s Street, Edinburgh. More information is available at scottishtextilesshowcase.com.
